Game Fishing Equipment

It is often exasperating to read reviews of the latest fishing tackle in magazines. Perhaps for legal reasons, there seems to be a reluctance to criticize any of the equipment offered for sale. The following views are entirely my own, unaffected by commercial considerations, I am neither indebted nor have any commercial ties to any of the companies mentioned.
Click on an Indexed item below to take you directly to the indicated section. Manufacturer's names are linked to the page giving contact details about them.

----- Fly Fishing -----

Fly Fishing Rods

I prefer a highly tuned tip-action rod as these have a potential distance advantage over a slower actioned rod. The fly line certainly seems to slide out better through snake intermediates - and rattles like a train through the ringed guides on my Diawa boron rod. The quality of a rod is invariably indicated by the quality of the cork used in the handle - poor rods always use poor cork (or synthetic material), and not all the big expensive manufacturers use the best cork either!

Occasionally you may find yourself in the awkward position of being unable to dismantle the rod, yet needing to transport it home in the car. This situation can be averted by periodically rubbing the male ferrules with candle wax. If the rod does prove resistant to dismantling, then try rotation ALONG THE AXIS of the rod, increasing the grip on both sections of the rod by using rubber gloves. On no account administer blows to the joint.

Hardy

House of Hardy's rods are well made and painstakingly finished. Always highly priced, they were later than most in including an aluminium tube with their most expensive rods. I have:

• Hardy Deluxe Smuggler rod 9ft 5in, AFTM 7, 7 piece which I use with Golden Prince 7/8 reels and an Air-Cel Ultra-3 Orbit Taper floating line. I once had someone ask me 'What distance rod are you using ?' This is a brilliant rod for the travelling angler, and I would recommend it without reservation.
• Hardy Classic Smuggler rod 9ft 5in - as above with with decent reel seat, rather than simply a couple of rings.
• Hardy De Luxe 10ft 6in - bought as a sea-trout rod, but I prefer the Sage.

The House of Hardy have announced that they are now to be called 'Hardy & Greys Limited'. Personally, I think that once again they have mismanaged their marketing. With 'House of Hardy' as the 'quality' firm and 'Greys' as the 'excellent-value' option - they covered most of the market, sensibly avoiding the 'economy' end. But by lumping the two names together - all they will achieve is a downgrading in perception of the 'Hardy' name. They need to keep each brand with its own unique selling proposition, and not confuse the buyer.
American rods cost more with each new version, yet this does not seem to be diminishing their sales or popularity - in fact quite the reverse. I would have thought that the profit is at the top end of the market with highly priced, relatively low volume sales - for a product with a discernable edge on its competitors. So I am rather bemused by Hardy's downmarket move, as I feel it is not to its competitive advantage. But no doubt the pressure from the accountants will have more force than that from those of us who love to acquire the best fishing tackle!

Greys of Alnwick

Greys was started by an individual who had been employed by Hardys and used their blanks in the rod range. The current rods feature 'push-over' joints though, rather than the spigot joints preferred by Hardys. However, I am reliably informed that the rods are now of 'Eastern manufacture'. The 'Missionary' range of travel rods look particularly attractive.
I feel that Greys' products are finished to a high standard, perform well and have a lifetime warranty, yet everything is very competitively priced. However, they do not quite meet the exemplorary standard of finish of the Hardy (eg graphite reel seats on some rods, why not use the Platinum X rings on the Missionary ?). For a practical angler, unconcerned with 'price-hiking cosmetics', they offer a near top-quality product at a very reasonable price.

Sage

I have:

• 8100-3 RPL, 10ft AFTM 8. I use this rod with an Air Cel Ultra 3 Specialist #8 - and it is a joy. I have caught salmon, trout and sea trout with this rod. It is my favourite rod, not without faults (mainly the reel seat), but I would recommend everyone to use the products of this company. As they are American, the price is VERY steep, but you do get what you pay for.
• double handed, 12ft 4in, 3 piece, AFTM 8, Graphite IV (81243) rod, acquired in January 1998. It has a good action, but I prefer a single-handed rod.

Unfortunately, in England we pay the same price in pounds as the Americans pay in dollars - yet the exchange rate is about £1=$1.50. Incidentally, British fishing tackle is sold in USA at a discounted rate compared to the price we pay here. The moral seems to be - Buy your rods in USA! Even if you get a customs request for import duty - in my experience it still works out cheaper.

Which would I buy now ?

I have acquired a lot of rods. Based on my experience I would advise buying:

• fly rods that are easy for travelling
  Travel fly rods with 5 or more sections.
  • casting actions of modern multi-section rods leave nothing to be desired
  • much easier to transport on an aeroplane
  • easily carried (and hidden) in a car.
• decent manufacturers rods are worth having
  Fish can be caught with any class of rod, but confidence can be inspired by using a rod with a superb action, and well designed components. Confidence plays a large part in success when fishing.
• specific likes
  • I like my Sage rods, but they are expensive.
  • I have a great regard for my Hardy 'Smuggler' rod (but it could have a faster action), so I suspect that the longest of the latest Hardy multi-section rods would rapidly a favourite - if I could justify its purchase.
  • I prefer longer rods as they allow better control of the fly - but I know that Americans go for much shorter rods than the English.
  • I like high quality components, especially those that defy corrosion without having a 'plastic' look (e.g. an anodised aluminium reel seat).

What would I avoid ?

• the 'slide-in' style connection, favoured by Shakespeare on their cheaper rods. The spigot joints are best, then the slide-over, the slide-in are definitely inferior.
• the ubiquitous, grey, graphite Fuji reel seat. I prefer a well manufactured metal-with-wood-insert reel seat.
• ringed guides throughout - the line seems to rattle out like a train through them. I prefer 'high rise' snake intermediates, with one or two stripping ringed guides.

Fishing Rod protection

Rods are normally stored broken down, each section in its own partition in a cotton rod-bag, in a strong rod case and stored horizontally. Most fishing hotels have a 'Rod Room' where you can place your fully assembled rod on horizontal pegs - to save the time-consuming assembly of the rod each day. A good opportunity to see what your fellow anglers are using!

Rod Tube

Most rods these days come with a protective hard plastic tube, sometimes with a further cordura cover and carrying strap. Aluminium tubes are available from most retailers and these give added protection. The KIS and SporTube rod cases take several rods and the length can be varied - ideal for the travelling angler, but you may be charged for extra luggage on the plane. Protect both ends of the rod with buffers of foam, cork or sponge, making sure that everything is kept bone dry. A tiny drop of oil on the threads of a screw-in plug reduces corrosion and facilitates unscrewing.

Car rod carrier

In Scotland, when moving between the beats, it certainly helps to have a fully assembled rod carrier mounted on the car, so that fishing can immediately resume on reaching the latest destination. The means of securing the carrier to the car vary from vacuum to magnetic devices.

Before putting away

After use, all rods benefit from a wiping down to remove mud etc. and being stored clean and dry. An old toothbrush helps to keep the reel seat and rings clear of dirt.

Fly Fishing Reels

Choosing a reel

A reel is more than simply a repository for the line. As an engineer I can dream about an ideal reel that I would design, to include the following features:

• constructed from a light, strong material that could take knocks without deformation (titanium ?). Many anglers seem resistant to using a reel made from composite materials.
• machined metal finish. A machined metal item will be superior to one that has only been cast (finer tolerances give a better fit, less play, minimised clearances, better sealing and results in stress relieving of the part).
• strong and practical, overide ultra-light and aesthetic. Some of the current designs place a huge emphasis on lightness. With only a few extra grams they could be much stronger, and take considerably more punishment before requiring replacement. Will carrying a few extra grams really cause fishing fatigue? When fishing, is aesthetics more important than tackle strength and usability? I am a firm believer that an inherentally well-designed item is able to transmit a reassuring 'looks good' factor to the knowledgeable critic, so it almost sells itself. However, I feel that the advertising hype for ultra light gear is just another way of selling a 'holy grail' to the angler, who is led to believe that it will give an edge. I fear that it mainly gives an economic advantage to the salesperson.
• a durable surface finish, gun-metalled or similar, so that the odd contact does not chip the surface.
• salt-water proof - providing some extra protection, which is also an advantage in a freshwater environment.
• dark, matt colour (inconspicuous and avoids 'flashing' which alerts the fish to possible danger).
• spool, 4in external, 3in internal diameter (so that the fly line does not get twisted into small diameter loops, giving 'memory' problems), and 1in wide (plenty capacity at this large diameter).
• disc brake mechanism (less 'jerky' than click detents).
• large scalloped brake adjuster (easy to grip even when wearing gloves) with obvious and clear setting marks.
• fully ventilated cage and spool (dries out quickly when 'dunked').
• one-sided cage design (for ease of use when sorting out line problems).
• an easy-grip counterbalanced handle (hassle free when playing the fish) of adequate size (so that it can be readily located).
• a ceramic ball or roller raced arbor (for smoother running and long life).

When originally specified (in 1996), there were few large arbor reels on the market - now they suddenly seem to be all the rage. But I am disappointed in:

• the drag control on many reels, remains too small and fiddly for anyone wearing gloves.
• the spool replacement procedure on some reels is abysmal. You need to be a mechanic at a bench to be able do the process easily. If it is cold, you are on the river bank and are wearing gloves this soon becomes a nightmare.
• in many cases visual style seems to pre-empt practicality. Some reels look as though they are fashion designer accessories rather than being designed to perform their function to perfection. In many cases strength loses out to appearance, and gaudy colours proclaim their presence to fellow fishermen and also the fish.

Maintenance of a reel

At the end of a fishing trip, wipe down the rod and reel with a dry cloth, and store them in a low-humidity environment. The brake mechanism should be backed-off, otherwise the parts in tension will acquire an age-set and reduce the future range of braking pressure. On a regular basis I wipe down the reels with Son-of-a-Gun (or Back-to-Black or equivalent) to maintain a barrier against corrosion and re-grease the spindle and detents with 'Vaseline' (to stop rusting).

Reel Manufacturers

Most modern reels available are manufactured in the Far East. So although the reel may incorporate the name of a well known English firm, it was almost certainly not made in England. This is a rather sad state of affairs, but explains why so many have such a common look and feel about them.

Greys Platinum XI

This was made at Hardy's factory, so it has a good finish and at a fraction of the cost of a normal Hardy reel. In the absence of an 8/9 capacity, I would go for the 9/10 on my AFTM #8 rod. Greys' current reels come from overseas, made at the same factory as the Airflo models, but probably to a higher specification.

Hardy

Hardy reels are well made and finished, marketed and packaged. My own view is that Hardy reels can be seen as an investment, part of which may be recouped in the future. The quality is always good, but they desperately need to speed up their design-to-production phase if they are to maintain customer loyalty. I have:

• Two Hardy Golden Prince 7/8 reels (but the check-pawls are a dreadful design, right-angled and easily lost)
• One Ultralight salmon (from the 1990s)
• One Uniqua (old, no ventilation and a narrow spool).

I treat them all with kid gloves as I am aware that only a slight knock could be a very expensive mistake. The House of Hardy went through a period of reacting to the market rather than leading it (e.g. other companies brought out large arbour reels well before them). At the start of 2007 they announced a titanium Zane Ti reel (£5,000) that technically exceeds expectations, so perhaps it is an indication of a change of company policy that is to be applauded.

Leeda 'Dragonfly'

I have six of the original 'Dragonfly 120' reels, so these are my normal workhorse. Reasonably priced, with an excellent disc drag system, and an open-cage design - it is no longer available. The nearest equivalent (but at a much increased price) is the Dragonfly Large Arbour 90.

Leeda Rimfly

Adequate for the beginner who is not sure what to buy, relatively inexpensive yet well made. The latest models are coloured green, and the Superfly models have disc brakes.

Marryat

A well engineered reel, but you have to pay for it (typically about £200). The bronze and black are for practical fishermen (the gold will signal your presence).

Orvis Large Arbor

A popular reel. The latest version is a significant improvement on the original, whose spool was remarkably shallow. The price is also more realistic.

Orvis Rocky Mountain Large Arbor

A good alternative. The cost is about 1/3 of the above, and includes a spare spool and a good reel bag.

Which would I buy now ?

I have acquired lots of reels. With hindsight I would buy:

• quality rather than quantity
• one size larger than specified (so that it can take plenty backing)
• a basic, simple strong construction conforming as closely as possible to the specification above
• a reel-case in which to store and protect it during transit.

Reels seem to come as one of three main types:

• Workhorse - Good, solid, reliable and can take a fair amount of abuse. In this category I would put the Rimfly, Battenkill, Dragonfly and Greys GRX reels. My favoured reels are the Orvis Rocky Mountain and the Greys Platinum XI.
• Special - Often the salmon rod is treated to a 'better' quality reel. In this category I would put most of the Hardy, Marryat and the Lamson reels. If I were to be presented with such a reel I would probably opt for a Waterworks ULA Force 4.
• Work of Art - Some people are prepared to pay a fortune for a reel with its own individual character. In this category I would put the Art Hari and handbuilt reels. I do like the look of an Abel Super 10 Platinum.

Dick Stephen, in an article in 'Trout and Salmon' magazine February 2005, chose the Pfleuger Trion as the 'best in test' of reels costing less than £80.

Fly Fishing Lines

Air-Cel / Wet-Cel

I like Scientific Anglers lines. I use:
Ultra-3 Specialist - a long-bellied line which shoots well.
Orbit Taper - a short-bellied line. I prefer this to the Specialist on the boat, but this line is no longer available.
Hi-D - a rough, very short line (26 yards) which cuts your fingers, but it sinks quickly.
Spey Floating - for the double-handed rod.

Airflo

Don't waste your money - whatever the hype.

Cortland

I have used an SL, which was quite stiff and shot well, but the line itself did not last long.

Leeda Galion

In 1984 I bought a buckskin, floating line which is still going strong (now costs about £17.50). If you want a cheap line, my experience suggests that you should consider this brand.

Rutland Water Lead Core Sinking Line

A line with a smooth finish (less abrasion to the finger ends and the rod rings) yet a rapid speed of descent. I prefer this line to the Hi D, and recommend it. Unfortunately, this type of line is barred from International competitions.

Constructing a Shooting Head

Tournament distance casters prefer a short, dense head to give minimum air resistance and hence maximum distance (but presentation will suffer). So to get maximum casting distance, I built a shooting head for my AFTM 8 Sage rod using half a DT 10 line. Initially I made the head too long, and gradually cut it back until I felt comfortable with its weight. It is joined using Fishing Glue, with a neat whip finish to 30lb Flat Beam which is very stiff and slides through the guides very easily.
But I am not sure that for practical fishing, this is an optimal set-up. The next head I construct will use a DT 6 line, giving a very long head - which to get the fly out to a specific distance will require less 'shot' line. Invariably the running line seems to catch in the undergrowth, get tangled up, or trodden on, so I feel that it will result in a higher average distance achieved. There is an interesting discussion of related points at the Fly Casting Forum.

Leader

Braided Leader

Braided leaders have been with us for years and many fishermen use them though not all in the way advised on the packet. I use braided leaders, but purely as a matter of convenience in assembling the components of the complete line. It is easy to make the connection between the braided leader and the fly line, and has yet to let me down. However, I feel that it is certainly cheaper and probably more efficient, in terms of getting a good turnover, to use a heavier butt of plain nylon, needle (or nail) knotted to the fly line.
The braided leader is Full Blood Knotted to a butt section of sacrificial nylon, followed by a lighter breaking strain nylon.

Leader Nylon

Only when dry fly fishing do I consider constructing the leader from varying breaking strains of nylon to create a tapered effect which should help presentation. I feel that a weighted point fly is far more effective in achieving a good turnover. Normally, I make a butt section of heavier gauge with the remainder constructed from a single gauge throughout. For salmon fishing the butt is 15lb b.s. the rest 12lb b.s. and for trout fishing the butt is 12lb b.s. and the rest 6lb b.s.

Adapta Tapered Leader

When I started fly fishing these were the leaders that I used, but I now think that they are expensive and changed to making up the leader myself from lengths of normal nylon.

Drennan Sub-Surface Green

I like this nylon. It is reasonably priced, and reliable.

Hardy Copolymer

In May 1997 I landed a powerful 7lb 1oz brown trout on this 6 lb bs line. However, I have found that it is too shiny, and knots have to be tied with particular care lest they pull out.

Riverge Grand Max Fluorocarbon

A stiff, matt fluorocarbon line. It is expensive (about £6.99 per 30 metre spool) but reliable. I prefer it to the copolymer as it is easier to get the knots to 'bind' and is consistent and strong for a given diameter.

Maxima Brown

When salmon fishing in spate rivers, or in peat coloured water then I would tend to use this product. Also I use it as the final length of nylon after the swivel (the sacrificial line) when spinning in coloured water.

Double Strength Nylon

I have stopped using this as it snaps more easily than the standard nylon. It is almost unobtainable now, and has seen a fall from fashion.

Fly Hooks

The strength and suitability of the hook on which a fly is dressed are a constant source of concern for the fly fisher.

Dry Fly hooks

I often use the Drennan B400 series for Shipman buzzers.

Lure (or streamer) hooks

Dog Nobblers The Bob Church 'tinhead' hooks save a lot of time and effort, though they are expensive. An alternative is to use a brass 'goldhead' bead which has been fixed in position with a layer of thread and superglue (or Araldite Rapid). As long as this is subsequently painted (or varnished) to keep the water away from the superglue, then this bond will remain strong. Chain Bead Eyes, lead dumb-bells and two-part bits of a washing bowl plug chain are other means of adding weight near to the eye of the hook.

Double hooks

I have not seen many alternatives to the Partridge range.

Treble hooks

Partridge offer a range for fly tying in their CS and X2B ranges.

Flies

Trout Dry flies

Traditional - I find that simple 'straggly' flies work well. A claret Shipmans is a normal bob fly.

Popular - A 'Carrot Fly' made from claret seal's fur and a generous brown cock hackle (all heavily soaked in 'Gink') have worked well at Chew Valley.

Modern - I create very realistic plastazo 'floating fry' imitations. These do not do as well as expected, but have caught the occasional fish towards the end of the season.

Gink Fly Floatant
I obtained a special 'odour-free' version whilst in the States. It works well and is economical. Prior to a fishing trip, spruce up the dry flies in your fly-box with a blast of steam from a kettle (works amazingly well) and generously treat them with floatant, so that they are thoroughly permeated. Once you are fishing, these flies will float well over an extended period.

Trout Lures (streamers)

My most used type of fly! I tend to go in for flies that clearly imitate a small fish. A weighted head gives the required sinusoidal action, and a marabou tail gives the flowing movement of a fish. I use small and large flies of all colours, but a particular favourite is one where metallic blue flashabou almost completely replaces the marabou. A white 'zonker' has proved effective.

Trout Wet Flies

A very simple fly made with a single layer flashabou body, wound over a hook shank painted white, plus a black (or furnace) hackle has caught a lot of fish 'on the drop' when teamed with a weighted point fly.
A Montana Nymph and Stick Fly with a green tag have proved reliable point flies.

Salmon Singles

There are some works of art in single hook salmon flies. As these are relatively light they will provide more 'action' in use.

Salmon Doubles

To date I have caught two salmon on red, lifelike 'Shrimp' flies, supplied by Orvis and Lureflash - so I tend to be well disposed to them!.

Salmon Trebles

There is no doubt that a treble sinks deeper (due to the weight) and can provide a better 'hold' on the fish.

Fly Boxes

Common factors for my preferred boxes are:

•   size (6" x 3½") big enough to hold a large selection of flies
•   ethafoam holds the flies more securely than clips.
•   an electrolytic reaction may occur between metal clips and a wet hook resulting in some unsightly rusting. I avoid the boxes using metal clips.
•   black boxes will not 'flash' like the silver version, but different colours are useful to differentiate the types of fly they hold.

Wheatley Fly Boxes

Beautifully made but becoming expensive. Again I tend to collect these!

4602/1.5F

Deep black box (6" x 3½" x 1½") with Ethafoam centre-leaf. My workhorse box for traditional trout flies. I like this size of box, but you do need reasonably sized pockets in the waistcoat to accommodate it comfortably.

1602/1.5F

Deep silver box with Ethafoam centre-leaf. My workhorse box for lures (streamers) and muddlers. Basically the same box as the above, but the different finish makes it easy to distinguish the two different sets of flies.

1609

A beautifully made masterpiece of a fly-box, containing 32 compartments for dry flies. This box is rather expensive though.

4604

A black 1½" deep, ripple ethafoam box that I find ideal for salmon flies, particularly doubles and trebles.

1602F, 4602F, 4607F

These are various other boxes that I also find useful.

Okuma

Aluminium and very similar design to the Wheatley boxes, not the quality but ½ cost.

Snowbee Tube Fly Box

An excellent solution to the problem of storing tube flies, without them falling out of slots or holes. The tubes are firmly gripped by individual springs, with ethafoam in the lid to hold the accompanying trebles.

Fox Box

Good dimensions, but the flies are not held too securely by the plastic clips.

Rose Creek Fly Box

A fly box with an unusual means of holding the flies. The inside base and lid are covered by a tight mesh of nylon loops into which the hook is pushed. It has a lifetime guarantee, is well finished in green and certainly looks as though it could rapidly become a favourite.

Haberdashery button box

Clear plastic, compartmented button boxes, are also good for storing flies - and are very reasonably priced.

Pharmaceutical pill box

Plastic, compartmented boxes intended to store pills, sometimes labelled with a day of the week. The lid is opaque, so the flies are not on immediate view. These boxes are very cheap.

Home Made Fly Box

Using a Seymo Float Box 2290
A black plastic box (14.75" x 9.25" x 1.375") with sliding green clasps. I lined the lid and base with Ethafoam. It makes an excellent fly storage box, with a huge capacity which is particularly good for use on the boat where bulk is not as critical as having a variety of selection. Cleaned with "Back to Black", the box always looks pristine - and repels water.

Other Storage

Pyx

2" diameter and with a cord to hang round the neck - makes a good Fuller's Earth holder. I obtained it from a shop selling religious artefacts.

----- Spinning -----

Spinning Rods

For Salmon fishing, in a spate river, soon after the rain stops is the time to bring out the spinning / worming rod. I use this tackle relatively little, I must admit, but nevertheless my experience may be of interest.

Greys of Alnwick 10ft 3 piece Royal Salmon Traveller Spin.

In September 1997 I acquired this rod from Stephen J Fawcett in Lancaster, as I wanted a rod which could easily fit in the car. At a cost of £135 (about half the price of a Hardy) yet with an excellent specification including: a handy break-down size, a lifetime guarantee, well made and hand finished, with a silver screw winch reel fitting, and produced by a respected manufacturer - this was a good buy. It performs well, and has become a favourite rod for spinning.

Shimano STC 3000-330H 10-11ft 6 piece  20-50g supplied with 30"x 3.5" dia. Cordura Tube

A very reasonably priced (about £75), conveniently packaged, travel spinning rod. I acquired this rod in 2009, mainly for the ease with which it can be transported, and hidden in the car. Using the alternative section to increase it to 11ft, it becomes a useful worming rod.

Travel Spin Rods

A selection of current travel spinning rods with 5 or more sections.

Spinning Reels

I like the old Abu Cardinal reels, with their smooth worm drive and brass gear wheels - everlasting! As a right-handed person, it seems logical to use a left hand wind reel - but these are the exception rather than the rule, at least with multipliers. I have an Abu 6501 C3 LHW multiplier but find that I get more than my fair share of birds-nests, so it rarely comes out of its box, which is a pity as it is such a good piece of engineering.

Abu Cardinal C5 - fixed spool

No longer made, fixed spool reel, which I have found to be good, solid and dependable.

Abu 6501 C3 LHW - multiplier

Nomenclature breakdown

6501 C3

65 - the 6 shows the relative size, larger for a bigger reel 01 - 00=right-hand-wind, 01=left-hand-wind C3 - the number of ball bearings (in this case 3).

I will just have to learn how to get on with this reel. I suspect a more 'sweeping' casting action is required, a more careful setting of the overrun brake plus more intervention (thumb on the spool) to slow down the bobbin as the lure approaches the water.
These are very popular amongst the sea angling fraternity, so you can be sure that they are robust and dependable. Spares are readily available and some customisation (e.g. different handles) is possible.

Shimano AeroGT 6010 - fixed spool

A modern fixed spool reel, with tapered spool, 'dyna balanced' handles, and a 'trotting' facility - this reel has a good reputation. I find that it tends to be on the large side, but it is well made and is comfortable to operate.

Spinning Lines

When fishing for salmon, it would be foolish not to anticipate catching a large fish. Consequently the breaking strain of the line must be more than adequate. By using a lower breaking strain for the last section, if the line becomes fouled then this is where the break will occur on applying excessive strain.

Stren 17lb flourescent yellow

The colour enables you to see the main body of the line easily. It helps you track exactly where the current has taken the lure.

Maxima leader

The leader section of the line is usually 15lb Maxima, or 12lb brown Maxima when fishing for sea trout during the day.

Braid

About 3 times stronger for a given diameter, but expensive!

Spinning Lures

Mepps No 3 Copper

My most successful lure so far. It has caught me several sea trout, fishing during the day, in the tail of a pool.

Flying Condom

I am well equipped with a variety of colours. A slight variation, involving purple hair with crystalflash intermixed, in place of the coloured latex - helped catch me my first salmon by spinning.

Rapala Floating Yellow

Recommended to me, but again no takes so far - but they cost too much to lose!

Toby Modifications

Tobies have a reputation for attracting fish, but they seem to be able to 'lever off' the treble easily on this lure. To reduced this tendency: add a second split ring between the lure and the treble, as on the Lureflash 'Tobix lure' (an easy modification to make to a standard toby). remove the treble and lower split ring, and fix them to a wire trace running from the top split ring down the body of the lure. The trace is secured to the lower eye of the body by a weak link of cotton thread - which will snap if the fish attempts to lever against the lure.

Hugh Falkus on the other hand, advises using a 'heatshrink' wrapping to ensure that the shank of the treble always stays in-line with the body of the lure. This material can be obtained from electronics shops. It is placed in position and then subjected to a blast of hot air from a hair drier.

Spinning Bits and Pieces

Otter

There is a definite technique for using an otter to be learned, if this plastic disc is to be used effectively. With a little experience snagged spinning lures can be dislodged and recovered. Available from Stephen Fawcett.

Madona

A recent innovation, which requires a slightly different technique to the otter. Available from Madona Innovations.

(Under evaluation)

Split Rings

If a treble gets damaged, then it can be replaced often with the assistance of a very small split ring. On the Mepps direct replacement of the treble could involve dismantling the whole body of the lure, but a small split ring will only extend the reach a fraction - and a repair can be effected quickly and easily. At home I keep a variety of sizes of split rings and trebles; a watchmaker's eyeglass and screwdrivers; a pair of small, smooth jawed, sprung-open pliers; a cable-cutting set of pliers and a tin of Brasso. With this equipment I can repair and rejuvenate my spinning lures, and save quite a lot of money in the process.

Boxes

5 Tray Cantilever Aluminium Framed Toolbox (Argos 701/1614, B&Q)

Used to store lures (Mepps, Tobies, Spoons etc), line, trebles, weights, etc. at base, a selection of which can taken to the river bank in the fishing bag.

Myran 1120

4.25" x 3.5" x .75" clear, unbreakable plastic box with 12 compartments. Very useful for storing split-rings, swivels, snap-links and worming hooks in the fishing bag, or waistcoat pocket.

Hardware store boxes

Check out the boxes of nails/screws. These are often plastic with compartments and good for spinning lures.

Shocker Bead

On winding in the line, an 8mm rubber shocker bead threaded on the line, acts as a cushion between the first metal swivel and the tip ring, helping to increase the longevity of the latter.

----- Fishing Clothing -----

Fishing Clothing

Fishing Hat

Always wear a hat, it is surprising how often a fly catches it!

Polaroid Sunglasses for fishing

Eye protection is essential and the yellow polaroid filter helps to mask out reflections from the surface of the water. I prefer glasses which include side guards - they help protect the eye from side winds as well as wayward hooks.

Fishing Waistcoat

A fishing waistcoat, makes it so much easier to locate items, rather than hunting through a bag. For trout fishing I wear a green Ganton, which has generously sized front pockets and a massive storage area at the back. I acquired a Patagonia Minimalist vest for wading, which is very short, but has large pockets to store my favourite Wheatley boxes. However, I have found the mesh construction to be very unsuitable for fishing (it is a guaranteed harbinger of errant hooks which take forever to extract). I strongly recommend that you do not buy any fishing apparel (or bags) whose construction involves mesh on the outside.
If I were to design a practical fishing waistcoat:

• the principal material would be leather (for durability, to discourage cast flies from embedding themselves, yet light enough to let the body breathe and waterproof enough to resist a light downpour)
• reinforced shoulder pads (to distribute the weight of the cargo)
• external pockets large enough to take a 6"x4" fly box.
• no metal buttons or D rings as these can easily mark rods and fly boxes (instead use plastic or velcro fastenings)
• several 'internal pockets' (safer storage, particularly if they have zip closures). One should be waterproof for holding permit, licence and mobile phone
• special pockets or holders for scissors, priest, maglite torch, pen, comb
• a massive back pocket (handy for temporary storage)
• two velcro loops on the left-hand side (one at the base of the waistcoat, the other at top breast pocket level) to hold the rod, yet leave the hands free
• several plastic 'D' rings (for attaching zingers, nets etc.)
• everything coloured a drab green, so that the angler remains inconspicuous.

Waders

Chest Waders

I bought a pair of Ocean Chest Waders (with steel inserts on the soles) in 1984 and only at the end of the 1999 season did they spring a tiny leak in one boot (which I successfully patched). I hung them up in a cool place and cleaned them at the end of the season, but otherwise they have had no special treatment. By 2004 the leg seams were leaking, and it was time to buy a new pair, but 20 years' service for a pair of chest waders - really that is excellent!

Waist Waders

In May 1998 I acquired a pair of dark green Barbour Waist Waders. The only problem I can foresee is that the elastic waist band will eventually stretch. But for sitting down, they offer the security of a waterproof seating barrier - which the thigh waders certainly do not.

Thigh Waders

After 12 years my Uniroyal Streamfishers started to leak where the sole joins the upper. Some people recommend the black 'Coarsefisher' model (supposedly less liable to be affected by sunlight) - but I feel that the former model gave me excellent service.

Hunters

I normally wear these for spinning from the bank, or when fly fishing on the boat. I bought them in 1984 and they show no signs of needing replacement. Occasionally I clean them with 'Son of a Gun' and this gives them an 'as new' look.

Layering for warmth

The secret of keeping warm in cold weather is to create 'layers' of clothing, so that insulating air is trapped, but soon rises in temperature from body heat. Silk can also 'wick away' moisture to retain a dry environment near the skin. Much body heat is lost through the head, so always wear a head covering to reduce this heat loss. In practice, in cold weather for maximum comfort you could wear:
Hat, balaclava, silk underwear, cotton fishing shirt, woollen pullover, with a heavy duty outer layer to resist the elements, silk gloves inside neoprene gloves and neoprene socks inside the waders.

Silk Underwear

I am very surprised at the effectiveness of a pair of silk 'long johns' and a silk long-sleeved, polo-necked vest. Do give them a try as part of a multi-layer way of keeping warm. I have heard of fishermen wearing ladies nylon stockings - to keep them warm!

Fishing Shirt

A good shirt can insulate you against a cold wind. I have a camouflage pattern 'Rattlers' shirt which I bought at a Wal Mart store in the USA which is tightly woven so the wind cannot penetrate it. The lightweight Orvis 'Chamois' shirts and the Christopher Dawes 'Moleskin' shirts are good too. Chest pockets offer convenient storage and the button-down type improve security.

Fishing Sweater

A Tricoteur Guernsey sweater is a must. It not only provides a good windproof protection, it also sheds water so is ideal for the fisherman.

Wading Jacket

A very short wading jacket is a must for the river. I use a cheap £30 waxed cotton one that I picked up at a Game Fair. Provided it has plenty pockets, it makes a wading waistcoat redundant. Can be made to look like new again, by reproofing using Barbour Wax and a hair dryer.

Overtrousers

Needed surprisingly often in the boat, as rain showers are not uncommon in UK. Used in conjunction with a wading jacket, they make a fully waterproof, yet compact outfit.

One-piece fishing suit

A zip-up suit can protect you from the elements in the boat at the end of the season. I bought a heavy duty version designed for building-site workmen.

Fishing Gloves

Neoprene gloves keep your hands warmer, and are more convenient to use than woollen gloves. I use some Leeda Gul gloves (which have all the finger ends removed) and despite the reduced coverage they still keep the fingers warm. If it is really cold an inner pair of silk gloves provide additional warmth.

Wader Socks

Neoprene wader socks are a must if you are going to spend a long time in the water in cold weather. I also wear them in Wellington boots on the boat in cold weather.

Sun Protection

The sun can cause some unpleasant cancers, so the modern fly-fisherman takes adequate precautions, particularly when fishing nearer the equator on holiday.

Cover Up!

Always wear a hat, sunglasses and a long sleeved shirt (as much to avoid problems with hooks, as with sunshine), but there are now additional products specifically designed to shield the wearer from intense sunlight (e.g. balaclava, gloves) which are worth considering.

Sun block cream

Use of a high factor cream can mitigate the effects of direct sunlight, where flesh is exposed.

Bugs like a take-away too!

Discourage them with Jungle Juice or similar products, and re-apply where it could have been washed off. There are electronic devices which claim to deter mosquitoes and the like, but unfortunately I have no experience of them.
The Scottish highlands are notorious for swarming bugs, and nets can the purchased which encase the whole head and hat, making the ordeal more bearable.

Fishing Clothing Summary

• always wear a hat, polaroid fishing specs. and a long-sleeved shirt.
• avoid metal buttons and 'D' rings which on contact could easily mark the rod.
• External mesh on waistcoats, jackets and bags are an inevitable attraction to hooks!
  Look for velcro fastenings, plastic add-ons, and strong 2-way zips with a protective storm flap.
• when cold:
  • use several layers of clothing.
  • hand-warmer pockets can be a real boon in very cold weather.
• in hot weather :
  • always apply sun block as you get a double dose of sunshine when fishing, direct and reflected from the water.
  • use Jungle Juice to discourage insects and a bug-net can be invaluable on Scottish rivers.

----- Other Items -----

Fishing Bags

Outpack

Shakespeare The 9229 and 9230 bags are far more water and stain resistant than canvas bags. For the boat, a coarse fishing Shakespeare 'Beta' box holds everything and can be used as a seat. Bass Bag Hessian or straw bags seem to retain a 'fishy' smell forever, so I prefer to use a Hardy or a Bristol Waters 'mesh' type bass bag. If regularly soaked, it will keep the fish fresh by evaporative cooling. Even better (but bulkier), take along an insulated bag with some coolpacks which keeps the sandwiches fresh as well. Fishing Haversack With the current trend for carrying a variety of items using a small haversack, it was inevitable that a 'fishing' version of this accessory would appear. In 2006 Wychwood announced their 'Outpack' rucksack and Snowbee offered something similar.

Reel Case

With reels becoming an expensive item, some means of protection is essential. Hardy produce single plastic reel cases, and also circular leather versions are available. I prefer the multi-reel case, with capacity to hold several reels and spools and use one made by Wychwood.

Wader Bags

These zipped, easy-to-open bags, avoid mud and grit getting on the car upholstery. Available for wellingtons and a larger size to suit chest waders, these green bags are often heavily discounted on 'special offer' and are worth acquiring.

Landing Nets

Whitlock Nets

Exceptional nets, I have a 20in Gye net which has a reversible spike in the base, for pushing into the ground and thus holding the net upright alongside you as you fish. Alternatively, it can be slung over your shoulder, allowing you to wander and yet always having a net to hand, but the peel sling arrangement is hopeless, so get a proper leather one.

Home-made Game Fishing Net

I bought a two-piece, carbon telescopic shaft with a 'locking' arrangement, extended length about 9ft, from a coarse fishing department and added a 6in long, thick rubber protective grip to the base, so that it can take knocks without damage. A detachable and collapsible, large, wide, carp net screws into the brass, top of the shaft. With enormous reach and such a wide net, it can land fish in the most awkward spots. Transportation is no problem, as it breaks down easily into a small manageable size.

Drogue

Essential to control the speed of drift of the boat. It is a 5ft square of material (International rules - must be less than 25sq ft), with strengthened corners and terylene cord runs from them to a swivel.
I use a mountaineer's carabiner to attach the drogue to a strong sailing rope, (obtained from a ship chandler) about 15m long with spliced loops at both ends, and secured to the rowlocks of the boat using another carabiner. Optionally, an additional section of chain links near the drogue will make it sink rapidly and deploy quicker. Do ensure that the boat-end of the rope is secured before deploying the drogue, as a drogue on the lake bed is very difficult to rescue!

Other Useful Items

C&F 3-in-1 Nail Knot Pipe and Line Needle accessory

I have found this accessory very useful for a variety of tasks and would heartily recommend all fly-fishers to acquire one :

• to clear out the eye of a hook with the needle-sharp point
• to remove wind knots. Push the point into the knot, and then slide the knot down the rapidly increasing taper at the base of the needle. It does an excellent job of opening up the knot, so that subsequently it can easily be unpicked.
• to attach backing to the flyline. Push the needle through the last ½ inch core of the flyline, put the backing through the needle eye, and draw the backing through. Use the pipe to form a nail knot. Whip finish the joint, to ensure a smooth passage through the rings.

A minor re-design would improve it further for use when actually fishing :
The pipe can easily be misplaced and lost, but with the same end-fitting as the needle, including a split ring, it could be secured directly to the waistcoat. The needle should be secured via a cord or zinger - to give some flexibility of movement. I have never used the magnet at the end of the pipe but it could be used as a temporary depository for a carbon steel hooked fly.

Hardy scissors

Stored in a leather slot in the waistcoat, attached to a D-ring with a plastic coil (sold as a type of keys-zinger in petrol stations). Used for cutting the leader and the serrated extremities can be used in an emergency to unhook a fish when the forceps are not to hand. This and the 3-in-1 tool are now the most used accessories when I am out fishing. Originally I used a clipper, but now I find that the combination of the above two items is ideal when dealing with the leader and associated problems whilst fishing.
I tie a pair of the smallest version of Hardy scissors (plus the 3-in-1) to a leather thong round my neck, when salmon fishing in minimalist fashion during the hot summer weather.

Torches

Maglite Torches

I have always carried a Solitaire in a top pocket of the fishing waistcoat, in case darkness creeps up on me before I realise it. This small torch creates minimal additional load, but the variable beam is invaluable in an emergency at night.
When sea trout fishing which involves fishing at dusk, also carry an AA model clipped to the strap of my fishing bag to light the way back home. There are two options for holding the latter :

1. a plain leather belt holster (Model Number: AM2A021, Part Number: 108-000-052)
2. a full flap black nylon belt holster (Model Number: AM2A056U, Part Number: 108-000-415)

I prefer the latter as it protects the whole of the torch against accidental knocks.
In 2007 Maglite rather belatedly brought out an LED version - currently about double the price. The best Maglite prices I have seen are at 7Dayshop.com

I have a penclip style, Led Lenser model V13, using 2xAAA batteries, with a powerful, bluish beam and a neat switch at the top of the body. It comes with its own holster, is very economical on batteries and may replace the Maglite for fishing activities.

Hand Wipes

After handling a fish, these quickly clean your hands and make them smell sweet again, essential! Available generally in Supermarkets and Chemist stores.

Hand Towel

I always carry a half size hand towel, or a face flannel, to dry my face and hands. I have a Lifeventure High Absorbency Soft-touch Trek Towel (housed in its own ventilated carry-sack), offering the advantages of portability, small size, light weight and high absorbency. It is like a synthetic Chamois leather cloth, but works well. An economical alternative would be a Vileda Floor Cloth.

Stainless Steel Vacuum flask

Many Supermarkets sell stainless steel vacuum flasks, capacity of up to a litre, for about £5. I tend to use a .35L flask which is enough to keep the spirits warmed for a few hours, yet not too bulky. My latest acquisition is an 'Aladdin, Leak-Proof Thermal Travel Mug'. This has a protective, rubberised coating which will not mark other items put in the same bag.

Kelly Kettle

These items will invariably be seen on a fishing trip to an Irish lough. A double-walled, annular kettle, with the fire through the central chimney. Fill with water through the stoppered side neck, gather a few dry twigs and place them in the fire base, light a match and in no time at all, you have a pint of boiling water.
For suppliers see: Fishing Tackle Manufacturers and Dealers (check Kelly Kettle and Eydon Kettle).

Priest

Salmon

1. A priest with a huge head, heavy enough for the largest salmon

Trout

Get one which combines a weighted head with a marrow spoon.
2. Bob Church priest with marrow spoon which can be screwed into the hollow handle for storage
3. Small, heavy priest - the one I use most often
4. Peregrine supply an excellent blue coloured priest, incorporating a marrow spoon in the handle which is released by twisting the brass ferrule at the end. But at £30 it is rather a luxury item.
5. Traditional weighted blackthorn wood priest made by Sid Ogborne

Combination Priest/Knife/Bottle Opener

Shakespeare

Shakespeare used to make this excellent item, but it is no longer available. It is ideal for the travelling angler as it contains a priest for dispatching the fish, a knife for gutting the fish, a handy bottle/can opener, a hook sharpener and a leather thong for hanging it from a belt.

Special EFX (KNF02/ST) Fishermans Knife Stainless

From Quadri of Bath. A combination priest, tape measure, knife blade, a serrated blade with bottle opener, and a thong for hanging it from a belt.

Hubertus Angler Knife

Manufactured by Hubertus of Solingen
Sold by Stephen J Fawcett of Lancaster
This is a 'flick-priest' - pressing on the brass tab near the top of the rosewood handle, releases an arm topped by a weight which swings out and locks into position. Quite an implement, but beautifully made in Germany, with a stainless steel knife blade for gutting the fish and a lanyard to hang it from the belt. It can be used with the arm in its 'locked' position, for dispatching smaller fish.

Surgical forceps

The easiest way of removing a hook, and the bigger the better.

Eze-Lap Hook Sharpener Penclip

The best hook sharpener that I have come across and conveniently packaged. Simply pull the hook point along the channel, and the embedded industrial diamonds soon sharpen that point to better than new! I have had a couple of these for years, and they show no sign of wearing out.

Salter Spring Balance

It is rather frustrating not knowing exactly the weight of the fish that you have just caught, so I try to carry a balance. I use the 11lb maximum model, but for salmon fishing this is probably too conservative.

Cleaners and rejuvenators

"Son of a Gun" and "Back to Black" cleaners

These cleaners rejuvenate plastic items (fly boxes, chest waders, rod tubes, flylines), wellington boots, and rods. They coat the items with a slippy, silicone layer which is water resistant. Take care when driving after using these sprays - even after washing your hands, the steering wheel becomes rather slippery.

Connolly Hide Food or Tableau Leather Food

A yearly application, allowed to soak into the leather in fishing bag straps and peel slings, stops them hardening and deteriorating. Leave it to soak in overnight, then buff lightly.

Wading Staff

I do not use one myself - but of course I bought one!

Folding wading staff

These work on the same principle as the folding walking sticks - namely tubes of aluminium, with a bungee cord passing through the centre. The top section has a cork or rubber grip.
It would be easy to make a staff from two walking sticks, plus cork intended for a rod handle. I have seen some 'adjustable' sticks, with a sliding top section, and these would be even better, though increasing the packed size slightly.

Walking Spikes

Designed for walkers, these telescopic items could be used as a wading staff and I bought two for £5. The spike can easily be replaced by a large walking stick bung (available from Boots the Chemist), to give the base some weight and also to provide a large surface area of sound-deadening material. The telescopic construction allows you to adjust the length to individual preference.

Zingers

These extendable items ensure that accessories are readily to hand and do not get lost.

Opening Plastic Coil

I use this for deploying the scissors (frequently used).

Plastic zinger

Bought in a 'Pound Shop' where it was attached to a biro pen. It pays to look round in unexpected places for items that can be used when fishing. These cheap and cheerful items are every bit as functional as the very expensive items specially produced for anglers by acknowledged manufacturers.

Metal chain zinger

Promoted for use by security personnel carrying bunches of keys, this more robust item is an excellent way to retain control of a wading staff. It is designed to be suspended from a belt and can easily cope with the weight and forces it may meet.

----- Absolutely Useless Items -----

Knot Tying Tools

Things to help you tie blood knots, etc. are invariably a complete waste of time. Just learn to do it with your fingers.

Leader Straightener

The leader is gripped between two pieces of leather and pulled through to straighten out any kinks (the leather may include a pad for a degreasing agent). It is something else to carry and get caught in the equipment - I would rather replace the leader than use short term 'fixes'.

Game Fishing Equipment